Gattefossé calls its new Emulium Illustro, an innovative water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier of natural origin, designed principally for pigmented  formulations. Using a patented technology based upon polyglycerol esters, Emulium Illustro meets consumer expectations and formulator requirements for performance and flexibility. 


Emulium Illustro demonstrates superior performance and stability compared to other W/O emulsifiers on the market. Flexible, easy to use and suitable for cold processing, this new ingredient enables the formulation of fluid textures that are comfortable to wear and bring a soft and hydrated feel to the skin. Of particular interest in color and sunscreen formulations, Emulium Illustro can also be used to formulate  innovative textures for skin care. 


“We have been working for six years to find a composition that provides a concrete solution to natural W/O emulsion issues,” said Maxime Nollet, research scientist specialized in lipid chemistry at Gattefossé. “We have carefully selected three raw materials that are reacted together by esterification and interesterification. The association of a low freeglycerol grade of polyglycerol-6, 12-hydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid allow us to obtain a supple structure that stabilizes without need for a  co-emulsifier. The insaturated chain brings fluidity to the final emulsion and gives textures that present easy spreading capacity.” 


According to Malorie Duvent, a formulation scientist at Gattefossé, researchers have placed pigments at the heart of  this research from the very beginning.


The emulsions were constructed around pigments, taking into consideration different types of coating as well as uncoated materials. We have performed many tests with Emulium Illustro to explore it from every angle: compatibility with cosmetic ingredients, stability, sensoriality and clinical evaluation,” said Duvent. “We have also  developed many formulations to demonstrate its interest in makeup, sun care and skin care. Our fully natural foundation was evaluated in a consumer test on a panel composed of habitual users of silicone  foundations. The panelists were thrilled by both the performance of the natural foundation and the appearance of their skin after use. This is the best reward we could have hoped for.” 


Emulium Illustro will be presented at In-Cosmetics Global in Paris on April 2-2, 2019 at Gattefossé's stand, H80.